Japan is a safe country. Women and children walk unlit streets at night, confident that there won\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t be anyone with a knife or a gun lurking. Each day, thousands of mama chari \u00e2\u20ac\u201c mums\u00e2\u20ac\u2122 bikes with a ladies frame and a basket on the front that are used by everyone, even sarariiman \u00e2\u20ac\u201c are left outside train stations and shopping centres with only a small bar poking between the spokes for security. More expensive bikes, such as mountain bikes and racers, are targets for thieves, but as long as they\u00e2\u20ac\u2122re chained up properly, it\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s generally not a problem. On the other hand, umbrellas seem to be considered universal property. On rainy days, umbrella racks in the entrance of department stores are full as it\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s impolite to carry a sharp wet umbrella into a crowded space where it\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s likely to annoy people and damage goods. Respectable ladies come out of the store, go to pick up their umbrella, then spying a nicer one a bit further down the rack, take that instead.<\/p>\n
Japanese read violent manga, comics, on the train, but violent crimes are almost unheard of. Even housewives can be seen reading manga with rape, but sex crimes are also rare. The yakuza are often touted as \u00e2\u20ac\u02dcthe Japanese mafia,\u00e2\u20ac\u2122 but as well as their gambling and prostitution rackets, they\u00e2\u20ac\u2122re involved in legal enterprises that benefit the public, like real estate and hospitals. The hand towels that are offered on arrival in every restaurant are reputedly a yakuza endeavour \u00e2\u20ac\u201c adding honour to the extortion. They play a role as the modern samurai of Japan with a rigid hierarchy and a strict code of honour. Most Japanese I spoke to would avoid them in the street, but believe that they keep crime down by dealing with riffraff.<\/p>\n
Francois\u00e2\u20ac\u2122 boss lived a couple of houses away from the head of the largest gumi, team or organisation, in Japan, and everyone told him it\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s the safest place to live \u00e2\u20ac\u201c not because of the token police car parked permanently outside his house, but because no one would dare commit a crime so near one of the most powerful and dangerous men in the country.<\/p>\n
But like everywhere in the world, bubbles of unrest are beginning to surface. One of them burst near me in my second month in Kobe.<\/p>\n
*<\/p>\n
I was woken at two o\u00e2\u20ac\u2122clock on a hot Sunday morning in early June by Nimmi and Helen, calling from a koban.<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153A police station? What happened? Are you all right?\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153I\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll tell you when we see you. We need a place to stay tonight,\u00e2\u20ac\u009d said Nimmi.<\/p>\n
When they buzzed my intercom, she was struggling to keep the humour in her voice. \u00e2\u20ac\u0153Are you decent?\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
Nimmi knew how I felt about her, and that seemed to give her even more reason to banter. \u00e2\u20ac\u0153Not yet,\u00e2\u20ac\u009d I said, playing along. Then I realised it was true, and reached for a shirt, cursing the humidity.<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153Then we\u00e2\u20ac\u2122re coming up.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
Nimmi was dressed in a slinky black dress, more gorgeous than I\u00e2\u20ac\u2122d ever seen her, despite the weak smile. I showed them in, offered them a drink and we settled on the floor. Nimmi told the story, her wringing hands giving the lie to her resigned tone. Helen didn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t even try to cover her frustration and the few times she opened her mouth were to snap at me.<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153We were at the Dubliner\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s,\u00e2\u20ac\u009d said Nimmi.<\/p>\n
They\u00e2\u20ac\u2122d been celebrating Helen\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s last weekend in Japan and I would\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ve joined them if I hadn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t been stuck in the office all weekend. I\u00e2\u20ac\u2122d been there for fifteen hours the day before, Saturday, upgrading our voice mail system, and had to be back at eight in the morning.<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153I was taking lots of pictures with my new camera. I guess we were pretty obvious about it, not thinking that anyone would steal in Japan, and I left it in my bag in the corner while I was dancing.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
I started to sweat, thinking of Nimmi on the dance floor. \u00e2\u20ac\u0153So some guy stole the camera?\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153He took the whole bag. I went to get the camera after a couple of songs and it was gone. Helen and I ran outside straight away, and actually saw the guy going through the bag in his car.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153Shit. Did you get his number plate?\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153There wasn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t time to think about that. He almost ran over us getting away.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d She paused to collect herself. \u00e2\u20ac\u0153The strange part is that I\u00e2\u20ac\u2122m sure he was Japanese. Anyway, we found an omawarisan on the way back to the station.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
This title for a policeman translates roughly as Mr. Wanderer.<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153What did the police say?\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153Fuckin\u00e2\u20ac\u2122 cops were useless,\u00e2\u20ac\u009d said Helen.<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153They weren\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t much help,\u00e2\u20ac\u009d Nimmi agreed. \u00e2\u20ac\u0153It\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s the same everywhere. They take a statement then tell you that you probably won\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t get it back.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153You could always try the yakuza,\u00e2\u20ac\u009d I said, only half joking. \u00e2\u20ac\u0153They\u00e2\u20ac\u2122d probably find it for you. Were your keys in the bag?\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153No kidding,\u00e2\u20ac\u009d said Helen, glaring. \u00e2\u20ac\u0153Why else would we be staying here?\u00e2\u20ac\u009d I wished I could have left her outside.<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153Yes,\u00e2\u20ac\u009d said Nimmi, with a soothing look to Helen. \u00e2\u20ac\u0153But that\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s not all. Helen\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s plane ticket and my purse were also in there. The bastard has my house key and my address.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153He might be there now. Do you want to go and make sure everything’s ok?\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153How? I can’t get in. And anyway, there’s nothing valuable there. Nothing except my pure self.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
The comment invited a retort, but I could only look on in concern, thinking of how vulnerable she\u00e2\u20ac\u2122d be until she got her locks changed.<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153Can I use your phone? I need to cancel my credit cards.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153Sure. And I\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll get you some sheets, Helen.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d I set up the spare bed and started back to my own. \u00e2\u20ac\u0153Nimmi, I\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll be waiting for you.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
She gave me a smile that promised everything, but then said, \u00e2\u20ac\u0153You\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll be waiting all night.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153Well, if you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122d really rather sleep with Helen… Oh, you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122re welcome to use the stereo, if that helps.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153Thanks. Now fuck off so we can get some sleep.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
I finally had Nimmi in my flat, and she was going to be sharing a bed with someone who took no joy in the situation.<\/p>\n
I woke at six to find Helen snoring on the bed and Nimmi still curled around my phone. I made a quick breakfast and sat down beside her. She stretched enticingly and her smile sent my pulse racing. If only I could wake up to that every morning.<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153Did you sleep?\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153No. Not really. I came in to talk to you, but you were out cold. I figured you needed the sleep.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153I did, but I\u00e2\u20ac\u2122d rather have been talking to you. The hard part’s done. I’ll probably just be babysitting the vendor today.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d I left them with the spare key, went to work and met up with them again that evening for Helen\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s farewell dinner. She was in a much better mood then, having sorted out her plane ticket, but I was still glad to see her go. It left a gap in Nimmi\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s life that I was happy to fill.<\/p>\n
*<\/p>\n
Nimmi would call me to chat when she got home most evenings \u00e2\u20ac\u201c whenever she wasn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t expecting a call from her fianc\u00c3\u00a9 \u00e2\u20ac\u201c and on her days off, we\u00e2\u20ac\u2122d have dinner in town. A few weeks after the event, the rain let up for a long enough to inspire us to get out. We took to the mountains behind Kobe in search of cooler air.<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153I woke up three times last night when the wind rattled the door. I\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ve put the carving knife next to the bed for tonight. My God, what is that?\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
I thought she was looking at a wall of concrete damming a dry riverbed. Then I saw what she did \u00e2\u20ac\u201c three grilles covering a strange spill gate. The centre grille extended well below the others.<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153It\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s a gigantic phallus. Surely that\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s no accident. But it\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s pointing the wrong way,\u00e2\u20ac\u009d she grinned at me.<\/p>\n
My eyes were drawn to Nimmi\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s shirt, clinging invitingly to her body, wet from sweat and the earlier tsuyu rain. Her innuendo was a little too tempting, right then, so rather than join in, I forced my thoughts back to her fears. \u00e2\u20ac\u0153You\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ve got my number on speed dial, right? Just call me if anything happens.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153You\u00e2\u20ac\u2122re so brave when you think it might get you an invitation to stay the night,\u00e2\u20ac\u009d she teased.<\/p>\n
I bit. \u00e2\u20ac\u0153That\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s not true!\u00e2\u20ac\u009d My stomach twisted \u00e2\u20ac\u201c it was half true. \u00e2\u20ac\u0153I would have offered the same to anyone, even Helen.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d At least that was wholly true \u00e2\u20ac\u201c or would have been if she\u00e2\u20ac\u2122d lived nearby.<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153I know, and I appreciate it,\u00e2\u20ac\u009d she said, serious again. \u00e2\u20ac\u0153I\u00e2\u20ac\u2122m even scared walking home now. I used to just be disgusted by the drunken men who flash themselves at gaijin women, but \u00e2\u20ac\u201c\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
I cut her off. \u00e2\u20ac\u0153They what?\u00e2\u20ac\u009d I knew about chikan, men on trains who grope women, using the press of passengers to hide their actions, but that usually only happened in Tokyo.<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153Didn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t you know? Some of them even masturbate in front of you\u00e2\u20ac\u00a6. Like we\u00e2\u20ac\u2122d be turned on. At least they don\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t usually touch people, but the other night, someone did touch me. I was walking back from the station and this guy started following me. I walked faster and so did he. When I got close to my house I started running, but he caught me on the steps and grabbed my legs.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d She shuddered.<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153It wasn’t the guy who stole your bag, was it?\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153No. I\u00e2\u20ac\u2122m sure it wasn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t, but that doesn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t make me feel any better. And then there\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s all that stuff on the news now. Japan just doesn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t feel so safe any more.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153You mean the insurance fraud?\u00e2\u20ac\u009d Everyone in the office was talking about it. A woman who worked at a life insurance company was arrested after being the recipient of three or four claims. It seemed she had never met any of the deceased and speculation was that she\u00e2\u20ac\u2122d arranged the murders after forging the papers.<\/p>\n
Gruesome incidents like that are still rare in Japan, making headlines for months, but they do occur. The last had been the subway gassing by the Ohm cult, and before that, just after I arrived in Nagoya for school, the news was of a girl killed for being late. She was running to get through the gate before it closed and the teacher, seeing her, pushed harder \u00e2\u20ac\u201c a challenge to run faster. She fell. Her head landed on the track and the heavy gate crushed her skull. Perhaps it was all a big mistake, but at the school assembly that morning, the principal told everyone that it wouldn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t have happened if she hadn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t been late. He probably made everyone run twenty laps of the soccer field as punishment for her lapse.<\/p>\n
The event wasn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t seen as hanzai \u00e2\u20ac\u201c a crime. There was no trial. Discipline was solely the responsibility of schools and both the teacher and the principal were doing their jobs. The government supported them and the girl\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s family mourned quietly.
\nIt was six weeks before Nimmi\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s landlord finally arranged another lock for her. He seemed oblivious to the fear that was now a major part of her life. He probably saw it as another inconvenience of having a gaijin rent his flat. I\u00e2\u20ac\u2122d found, when looking for my own place, that some landlords specified \u00e2\u20ac\u02dcno gaijin,\u00e2\u20ac\u2122 even if the same place had \u00e2\u20ac\u02dcpets allowed.\u00e2\u20ac\u2122 The reason, I was told when I enquired, was that gaijin don\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t know how to treat a Japanese flat. We put nails in the walls and make too much noise. I couldn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t imagine an Australian landlord being able to specify \u00e2\u20ac\u02dcno Japanese\u00e2\u20ac\u2122 because they flood the bathroom every time they take a bath.<\/p>\n
*<\/p>\n
One night, while the old locks were still in place, I was pulled out of dreams of phone systems to hear my own phone ringing. Fearing Nimmi\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s knife was being put to use, I was up and pulling on clothes even as I picked up the phone.<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153Hi Murray!\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u02dcNot Nimmi,\u00e2\u20ac\u2122 I thought as I fought the surging adrenaline. Then I recognised the voice of Jemma, an old Australian friend from the exchange. She was living in Japan again, too. \u00e2\u20ac\u0153Shit, you scared me. What\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s up?\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153I\u00e2\u20ac\u2122m at karaoke with some friends and we\u00e2\u20ac\u2122re trying to remember who sang \u00e2\u20ac\u02dcUnchained Melody\u00e2\u20ac\u2122 in Ghost. You always know music stuff.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n
\u00e2\u20ac\u0153The Righteous Brothers.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d I slammed down the phone.<\/p>\n
It was two hours before my pulse slowed to normal, and the next day I stumbled to work bleary-eyed, for the first time arriving after everyone else. At least Nimmi was safe.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Japan is a safe country. Women and children walk unlit streets at night, confident that there won\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t be anyone with a knife or a gun lurking. Each day, thousands of mama chari \u00e2\u20ac\u201c mums\u00e2\u20ac\u2122 bikes with a ladies frame and a basket on the front that are used by everyone, even sarariiman \u00e2\u20ac\u201c are left… Continue reading \u00e7\u0160\u00af\u00e7\u00bd\u00aa<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[17],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/murraygunn.id.au\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/114"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/murraygunn.id.au\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/murraygunn.id.au\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/murraygunn.id.au\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/murraygunn.id.au\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=114"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/murraygunn.id.au\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/114\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1889,"href":"https:\/\/murraygunn.id.au\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/114\/revisions\/1889"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/murraygunn.id.au\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=114"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/murraygunn.id.au\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=114"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/murraygunn.id.au\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=114"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}