Driving off the bitumen main road into Antigua is like stepping back in time. Antigua means ‘old’ and it was the capital of Guatemala before Guatemala City. As a UNESCO site, Antigua has kept the traditional feel, right down to cobblestone streets and Mayan colour scheme, which is based on natural elements. The town square is almost dead centre and the streets run north-south (avenidas) and east-west (calles) throughout most of the town, with tall, narrow footpaths on each side. The cobblestones are treacherous under foot, and extend the time it takes me to walk to class each morning, but they add bolsas (bags) of charm to the place, and when they’re drowning under the deluge of the afternoon rain, the sight is truly special.
The local churches are largely still being restored from a ruinous state so the facades are much more impressive than the interiors, but the Iglesia de San Francisco and the Iglesia de Merced are well on the way to completion. My hosts are actively involved in the church of San Francisco, and I attended on my first Sunday in town to hear them sing with the choir. I’ve also found Amanda, who runs the homestay, with the churches ledgers spread out over the dining table, making sure everything is in order.
Looking beyond the town, you’ll quickly see volcanoes in every direction, and some of them are very active. I plan to climb Acatenango next weekend. From the top you can watch Fuego spewing lava that quickly settles on the sides. Others who have already done the trip tell me it’s the best thing they’ve ever done. It will have to be spectacular to beat Cappadocia, but I’m hoping they’re right.