Water’s back. When I woke up, there was nothing in the taps, but plenty falling from the sky. I ran downstairs with a bucket, but had to wait my turn to set under the drips from the roof. I got enough for Marie’s coffee, but not enough for a wash. Despite all the protests of our landlord it WAS just our building, so Marie left early to shower at a friend’s place. Now I’m the one who has to worry about stinking.
I’ve put a bit of effort into contacting old friends today and was rewarded with 3 people adding me to their messenger systems. It was great to catch up, if only briefly.
But on the unhappy side, Bhutanese bureaucracy struck again. The government were paying a large part of our rent at the old place and we had no reason to expect that not to continue. Our new landlord has been chasing us for the first month in advance and Marie has been chasing the office bookkeepers to set it up. Today, her boss got back from one of his trips and told her that we were meant to make the request and have the flat approved before the move and since we did it out of order, we’re not entitled to the rental subsidy.
This happens all the time. Marie is constantly finding out that they haven’t told her important information. Last time it was that the expedition to Haa was to return through India, but Marie needs a visa that she had no time to arrange. In such cases, her boss just laughs and says, ‘didn’t anyone tell you?’
As people visiting Bhutan, we’re made more welcome than I’ve ever felt abroad before. But as volunteers, giving up time and a decent salary, we’re made to feel as if Bhutan is doing us a favour by allowing us into their country at all. The feeling is shared by most of the expats here who are genuinely trying to help. It seems to be a case of ‘we’ll take their money and make them do our work.’ They don’t understand the idea of ‘give a man a fish and he’ll eat for a day, but give a man a fishing rod and show him how to use it and he’ll feed himself for life’. If Marie is doing economic studies and suggesting improvements, why should they waste their time? They could be playing solitaire instead!