The beautiful Russian Orthodox church stands on the highest point of the upper town, but the Estonians don’t think it’s beautiful. It’s a reminder of the occupation, when Russia decided to ‘save’ them from German occupation, only to create their own. And it’s built on the grave site of the father of one of Estonia’s national heroes. ‘Everyone knows you can’t build on a grave site,’ Merle told me with a smirk. ‘We’re all waiting for him to roll over in his grave and bring the whole building crashing down.’