Profile – Hucein

Hucein joined our bus at Agdz and sat down next to Pieter, who I’d met earlier that day on another bus from Marakesh to Ouarzazarte. He was very friendly and quick to invite us to stay at his family’s auberge, where we could camp for only 30 dirhum (A$6) per night. Hucein is not a… Continue reading Profile – Hucein

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Yes means No

Whereas the Japanese will avoid saying no by saying ‘maybe,’ the Moroccans seem to avoid it by saying ‘yes’ and finding a way to make it true. This particularly applies to anything that will get you to do something you otherwise wouldn’t do or go somewhere you otherwise wouldn’t go. Examples: “So you’ll take us… Continue reading Yes means No

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Peace at last

The locals in El Jadida (the New) are much more relaxed than in the east. This is meant to be a holiday destination for Moroccans rather than tourists, which is why I chose to come here, and the locals are content to let me come to them rather than harrassing me as I walk past… Continue reading Peace at last

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Linguists

I get more practise at speaking French here than I ever did in France. Morocco was once a French colony and much of the population still speaks French. They also give my Spanish a workout and even my Japanese. Some speak German and just about every other language you care to try. Usually only a… Continue reading Linguists

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Mosques

Every city, town and village in Morocco has at least one mosque and as long as there’s one person still living there, it’s the best maintained building in town. Unlike the domed structures I was expecting, Moroccan mosques comprise a rectangular courtyard (presumably with the walls aligned with the cardinal directions) and a tall square… Continue reading Mosques

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Camels don’t like people

Camels aren’t treated particularly well by the nomads. They have rope pushed through their nostrils to lead them and to force them to sit down or stand up. Our camels were hobbled to stop them going far when we were resting and had their legs tied up bent to stop them standing when we were… Continue reading Camels don’t like people

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Berber Camping

Here are a few tips for camping Berber style in the Sahara. camp on the hard surfaces between the dunes sprinkle dry sand on the ground for insulation and padding dig below the wet sand if you have to, to find the dry stuff try putting the poles in upside down (spike first) to stabalise… Continue reading Berber Camping

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Wet Desert

I am a rain god. I’ve suspected it for many years – most of my hikes are in the wet, the Australian drought broke temporarily whenever I came home and it’s been raining half the time since I moved back. But I wasn’t really sure until it rained on my first day in the Sahara.… Continue reading Wet Desert

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Pushy Moroccans

I’m back from 3 days in the Sahara and have found the locals here to be very pushy. I’m staying in an auberge 4km out of town so I’m at the mercy of the owner. I’m trying to book a bus back to the west tomorrow so that I can relax for the last few… Continue reading Pushy Moroccans

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Ourika Valley

I’ve decided on the desert, but stayed one more day in Marakesh with the young couple I’ve been travelling with so far. While checking out bus times, we met ‘the fat man’ in Berber gear and allowed him to convince us to take a drive into the Ourika valley to see the Berber villages. When… Continue reading Ourika Valley

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